Bespoke Jan Kielman Brown Lizard Derbies - 8UK/42FR
Bespoke Jan Kielman Brown Lizard Derbies - 8UK​/​42FR

Description

Jan Kielman is a polish bespoke shoemaker. Founded in 1883​,​ it is the oldest shoemaker in Warsaw and a reference in the world of shoemaking to this day. Jan Kielman Sr. began working in Warsaw around 1880 in the many shoemaking shops in the city. Three years later​,​ he received the title of "master" with the leather craft guild​,​ an order dating back to the 14th century​,​ and opened a small shop on 3 Chmielna Street. As the economy grew​,​ and thanks to his wife​,​ his reputation prospered as one of the rare shoemaker to propose beautifully crafted shoes and leather garments​,​ without mechanising his production. As WW1 ended and the Polish-Soviet War of 1920 raged on​,​ Jan went to Belgium to learn more about business and shoemaking production. He obtained an internship with Bally in Switzerland​,​ one of the leading firm of ready-to-wear and made-to-measure shoes of the early 20th century. He was awarded the title of "master shoemaker" upon his return​,​ making him one of the best shoemaker in the country​,​ along with Hiszpański (a specialist of evening shoes) and Niedziński (a reputed maker of riding boots). The roaring twenties were a peak in celebrity for Mr Kielman. In 1921​,​ he made for a young french colonel a pair of shoes. This colonel was the future General and President of France​,​ Charles de Gaulle. In 1927​,​ the King of Afghanistan Amanullah Khan decided to commission 200 pairs of slippers to Jan Kielman​,​ claiming he couldn't find better ones elsewhere. Other clients followed​,​ from heads-of-state to actors and the local inteligentsia​,​ including Polish President Ignacy Mościcki​,​ General Władysław Sikorski​,​ Jan Kiepura​,​ Adolf Dymsza​,​ Mieczysława Ćwiklińska​,​ Stefan Wiechecki​,​ Wiech​,​ Marian Brandys and many more. When WW2 struck​,​ it was a devastating blow for the Kielmans​,​ who lost everything during those dark times. The shop was reopened after the war by his son Waclaw​,​ but due to the Cold War and Soviet rule​,​ it struggled until the 1970's when the economy grew again. Unfortunately​,​ the situation would not last. When Jan Jr.​,​ son of Waclaw took over by 1982 with the help of his wife Leokadia​,​ the economy was in free fall​,​ with high inflation and shortages all around. However private small businesses were allowed​,​ so the shop quietly grew again. Since the fall of the Berlin Wall​,​ the shop regained its former glory​,​ with the help of the fourth generation of Kielmans​,​ Maciek. Having access to the best skins from tanneries all around the world. they offer a complete range of bespoke shoes​,​ including exotic leathers. In 2008​,​ they celebrated their 125th anniversary​,​ along with their 15 workers and several apprentices. They continue to work to this day​,​ and found a new clientele that discovered their work through trunk shows​,​ experiences on the internet​,​ and a very reasonable price offer for bespoke shoes compared to London​,​ Rome or Paris​,​ in the same vein as Lazlo Vass​,​ Saint Crispin's and other excellent Eastern European shoemakers. Jan Kielman style is similar to the tradition of Polish shoemaking: sturdy shoes with an indestructible construction​,​ conservative lasts and a practical aesthetic like the Polish version of the Budapester. However​,​ they also propose more refined lasts and original models​,​ including the use of exotic leathers like crocodile or lizard​,​ but always with perfect taste and classic style. The shoes I'm proposing are typical of Kielman style: bespoke derbies made with an almond shaped last in a brown lizard skin (probably Iguana). These shoes blend the preciousness of exotic leather with the sturdiness of the construction and the elegance of the last​,​ giving it a similar look and feel as a grained leather countryside derby. These shoes can be worn a flannel suit​,​ a tweed jacket and corduroys during the winter​,​ or with linen during the summer. You can also wear them with cotton or even with denim trousers. As always with Jan Kielman​,​ they are entirely handmade​,​ from the welt to the upper and the heel. The condition is excellent​,​ aside from a small tear on the side of the left shoe. It has been properly repaired since​,​ and the stitches are only slightly visible. Steel toe taps and sole guards have been added to increase the durabilty of the shoes. The size is approximately a 8UK​​​/​​​42EU. Check the measurements below to be sure it fits you: Length left shoe: 29​,​2cm Length right shoe: 28​​,​​​9cm Width left shoe: 10​,​2cm Width right shoe: 10​,​1cm The quality is equivalent to the following bespoke houses: - In England: John Lobb Ltd Bootmaker​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Nikolaus Tuczek​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Dominic Casey​​​​​,​​​​​ Foster & Son​​​​​,​​​​​ Gaziano & Girling​​,​​​​​ Henri Maxwell​ - In Italy: Stefano Bemer​​​​​,​​​​​ Freccia Bestetti​​​​​,​​​​​ Gatto​​​,​​​ Marini​​​​​,​​​​​ Pettrocchi​​​​​,​​​​​ Beppino Rampin​​​​​,​​​​​ Roberto Ugolini​​​​​,​​​​​ - In France: Aubercy Bespoke​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Berluti Bespoke​​​​​,​​​​​ Corthay Bespoke​​​​​​,​​​​​​ John Lobb Paris Bespoke​​​​​,​​​​​ Massaro Bespoke​​​​​,​​​​​ Philippe Atienza​​​​

Features

Footwear size - UK: 8

Condition: Excellent

Colour: Brown

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€1,035