Bespoke Guilson Charcoal Grey POW Suit - 42​​/​​52L
Bespoke Guilson Charcoal Grey POW Suit - 42​​​/​​​52L

Description

André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939​​​​,​​​​ he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's​​​​,​​​​ due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success​​​​,​​​​ he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There​​​​,​​​​ he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps​​​​,​​​​ to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto​​​​,​​​​ Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However​​​​,​​​​ he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox)​​​​,​​​​ he moved to the 16th Arrondissement​​​​,​​​​ Avenue Victor Hugo​​​​,​​​​ the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière​​​​,​​​​ with the help of a client and friend​​​​,​​​​ and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement​​​​,​​​​ Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring​​​​,​​​​ first as a member​​​​,​​​​ then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There​​​​,​​​​ he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT)​​​​,​​​​ a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​,​​​​ Smalto​​​​,​​​​ and many other tailors​​​​,​​​​ the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters)​​​​,​​​​ who will later work for these ateliers. For instance​​​​,​​​​ Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT​​​​,​​​​ and one of Guilson's worker​​​​,​​​​ Brahim Bouloujour​​​​,​​​​ won Meilleur Ouvrier de France​​​​,​​​​ before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79​​​​,​​​​ André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018​​​​,​​​​ and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped​​​​,​​​​ crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler​​​​,​​​​ for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats​​​​,​​​​ along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a charcoal grey double-breasted suit​,​ with a prince of wales check pattern​,​​,​​​​ made for André Guilson​​​​,​​​​ by himself​​​​,​​​​ in 2008. A piece of history​​​​,​​​​ it will become the perfect business suit from autumn to spring. As always with Guilson​​​​,​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​​,​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​,​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. There is notably his signature "G" in the lining​​,​ as a trademark of all Parisian tailors (C for Camps de Luca​​,​ S for Smalto). The conditions is excellent The suit is best fitted for someone with a strong 42UK ​​​​​/​​​​​​52FR or a slim 44UK ​/​ 54FR size​​​​,​​​​ around 1m80 tall. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 48cm Sleeve length: 66cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 55cm Waist at button: 53cm Jacket length: 83cm (collar included​​​​,​​​​ with 4cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 12m Waist for trousers: 50cm (with 5cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 80cm Length total: 110cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 24cm (with 3cm of fabric to widen it) Trouser Cuffs: 4cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​,​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​,​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​,​​​​ Arnys​​​​,​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​,​​​​ Urban​​​​,​​​​ Max Evzeline​​​​,​​​​ Opelka​​​​,​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​,​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​,​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​,​​​​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​,​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​,​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​,​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​,​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​,​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​,​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

UK size: 42

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Glen check

Length: Long

Construction: Canvassed

Colour: Red, Grey

Location

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