Bespoke Guilson DB Navy Chalkstripe Suit - 42​​​/​​​52L
Bespoke Guilson DB Navy Chalkstripe Suit - 42​​​​/​​​​52L

Description

André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939​​​​​,​​​​​ he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's​​​​​,​​​​​ due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success​​​​​,​​​​​ he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There​​​​​,​​​​​ he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps​​​​​,​​​​​ to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto​​​​​,​​​​​ Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However​​​​​,​​​​​ he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox)​​​​​,​​​​​ he moved to the 16th Arrondissement​​​​​,​​​​​ Avenue Victor Hugo​​​​​,​​​​​ the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière​​​​​,​​​​​ with the help of a client and friend​​​​​,​​​​​ and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement​​​​​,​​​​​ Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring​​​​​,​​​​​ first as a member​​​​​,​​​​​ then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There​​​​​,​​​​​ he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT)​​​​​,​​​​​ a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca​​​​​,​​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​,​​​​​ Smalto​​​​​,​​​​​ and many other tailors​​​​​,​​​​​ the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters)​​​​​,​​​​​ who will later work for these ateliers. For instance​​​​​,​​​​​ Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT​​​​​,​​​​​ and one of Guilson's worker​​​​​,​​​​​ Brahim Bouloujour​​​​​,​​​​​ won Meilleur Ouvrier de France​​​​​,​​​​​ before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79​​​​​,​​​​​ André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018​​​​​,​​​​​ and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped​​​​​,​​​​​ crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca​​​​​,​​​​​ but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler​​​​​,​​​​​ for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats​​​​​,​​​​​ along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a beautiful navy double-breasted flannel suit​,​ with a chalkstripe pattern​,​​​​ made for André Guilson​​​​,​​​​ by himself​​​​,​​​​ in the late 2000's. A piece of history​​​​,​​​​ it will become the perfect business suit from autumn to spring. As always with Guilson​​​​​,​​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​​​,​​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​​,​​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. There is notably his signature "G" in the lining​​​,​​​ as a trademark of all Parisian tailors (C for Camps de Luca​​​,​​​ S for Smalto). The conditions is excellent. The suit is best fitted for someone with a strong 40UK ​​​​​​/​​​​​​​50R or a slim 42UK ​​​/​​​ 52FR size​​​​​,​​​​​ around 1m80 tall. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 45​,​5cm Sleeve length: 64​,​5cm (with 3cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 54cm Waist at button: 53cm Jacket length: 81​,​5cm (collar included​​​​​,​​​​​ with 4cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 11m Waist for trousers: 43cm (with 6cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 82cm Length total: 112cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 23cm (with 3cm of fabric to widen it) Trouser Cuffs: 4cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​​,​​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​,​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​​,​​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​​,​​​​​ Arnys​​​​​,​​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​,​​​​​ Urban​​​​​,​​​​​ Max Evzeline​​​​​,​​​​​ Opelka​​​​​,​​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​​,​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​,​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​,​​​​​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​,​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​,​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​,​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​​,​​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​,​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​,​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

UK size: 42

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Chalk Stripes

Length: Long

Construction: Canvassed

Colour: Navy

Location

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