Bespoke Guilson Gunclub Check Tweed Sportcoat - Size 40/50L
Bespoke Guilson Gunclub Check Tweed Sportcoat - Size 40​/​50L

Description

André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939​,​ he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's​,​ due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success​,​ he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There​,​ he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps​,​ to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto​,​ Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However​,​ he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox)​,​ he moved to the 16th Arrondissement​,​ Avenue Victor Hugo​,​ the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière​,​ with the help of a client and friend​,​ and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement​,​ Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring​,​ first as a member​,​ then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There​,​ he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT)​,​ a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca​,​ Cifonelli​,​ Smalto​,​ and many other tailors​,​ the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters)​,​ who will later work for these ateliers. For instance​,​ Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT​,​ and one of Guilson's worker​,​ Brahim Bouloujour​,​ won Meilleur Ouvrier de France​,​ before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79​,​ André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018​,​ and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped​,​ crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca​,​ but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler​,​ for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats​,​ along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a tweed sportcoat in a gunclub pattern​,​ made for André Guilson​,​ by himself​,​ in 2008. A piece of history​,​ it will become the perfect companion from autumn to spring​,​ with a variety of trousers (flannel​,​ corduroy​,​ whipcord​,​ cavalry twill). As always with Guilson​,​ it is fully handmade​,​ from the lining to the buttonholes​,​ from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent​,​ and was almost never worn. The sportcoat is best fitted for someone with a strong 40UK ​/​ 50FR​,​ or a slim 42UK​/​52FR size​,​ around 1m80. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 46​​cm Sleeve length: 66cm (with 3cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 52cm Waist at button: 53cm Jacket length: 80cm (collar included​​​​,​​​​ with 4cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 10cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​,​ Cifonelli​,​ Francesco Smalto​,​ Claude Rousseau​,​ Arnys​,​ Lanvin Mesure​,​ Urban​,​ Max Evzeline​,​ Opelka​,​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​,​ Rubinacci​,​ Dalcuore​,​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​,​ Henry Poole​,​ Huntsman & Sons​,​ Nutters of Savile Row​,​ Chittleborough & Morgan​,​ Richard Anderson​,​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

UK size: 40

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Houndstooth, Glen check

Length: Long

Construction: Canvassed

Colour: Blue, Brown

Location

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    €748
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