Bespoke Guilson Navy Blue Herringbone Suit - Size 40/50R
Bespoke Guilson Navy Blue Herringbone Suit - Size 40​/​50R

Description

André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939​​​​,​​​​ he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's​​​​,​​​​ due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success​​​​,​​​​ he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There​​​​,​​​​ he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps​​​​,​​​​ to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto​​​​,​​​​ Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However​​​​,​​​​ he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox)​​​​,​​​​ he moved to the 16th Arrondissement​​​​,​​​​ Avenue Victor Hugo​​​​,​​​​ the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière​​​​,​​​​ with the help of a client and friend​​​​,​​​​ and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement​​​​,​​​​ Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring​​​​,​​​​ first as a member​​​​,​​​​ then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There​​​​,​​​​ he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT)​​​​,​​​​ a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​,​​​​ Smalto​​​​,​​​​ and many other tailors​​​​,​​​​ the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters)​​​​,​​​​ who will later work for these ateliers. For instance​​​​,​​​​ Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT​​​​,​​​​ and one of Guilson's worker​​​​,​​​​ Brahim Bouloujour​​​​,​​​​ won Meilleur Ouvrier de France​​​​,​​​​ before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79​​​​,​​​​ André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018​​​​,​​​​ and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped​​​​,​​​​ crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler​​​​,​​​​ for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats​​​​,​​​​ along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a beautiful bespoke Guilson navy bleu suit with a subtle herringbone pattern​ in a light Super 120's wool. Made in the 2010's​​,​​​​ it will become one of your favorite business suit. It features everything you want from Guilson: a classic rich cigarette shoulder​​,​ drop pocket (an inside pocket in the shape of a raindrop)​,​ precise cut and excellent fabric. The lapel is quite original. It is a blend between a classic peak lapel and the more unique Parisian lapel made famous by Camps de Luca and Francesco Smalto​,​ in a style similar to 1920's and 1930's suits. The suit even has a "point baguette" (an handmade seam along the line of the trousers​​​​,​​​​ similar to what you could find on a tuxedo trousers​​​​,​​​​ but without the satin band). As always with Guilson​​​​,​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​​,​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​,​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar​,​ as well as the trousers. The conditions is like new. The suit is best fitted for someone with a 40UK​​​/​​​​50FR size​​,​ around 1m80. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 45cm Sleeve length: 64cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 51cm Waist at button: 51cm Jacket length: 82cm (collar included​​​​​​,​​​​​​ with 4​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 10cm Waist for trousers: 45​,​5cm (with 3cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 75​,​5cm Length total: 102cm (with 7cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 21cm (with 3cm of fabric to widen it) Cuffs: 4cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​,​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​,​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​,​​​​ Arnys​​​​,​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​,​​​​ Urban​​​​,​​​​ Max Evzeline​​​​,​​​​ Opelka​​​​,​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​,​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​,​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​,​​​​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​,​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​,​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​,​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​,​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​,​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​,​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

UK size: 40

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Herringbone

Length: Long, Regular

Construction: Canvassed

Colour: Navy

Location

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    Guillaume A

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