Bespoke Guilson Ocher Mohair Super 100's Trousers - W31/41
Bespoke Guilson Ocher Mohair Super 100's Trousers - W31​/​41

Description

André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939​​,​ he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's​​,​ due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success​​,​ he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There​​,​ he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps​​,​ to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto​​,​ Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However​​,​ he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox)​​,​ he moved to the 16th Arrondissement​​,​ Avenue Victor Hugo​​,​ the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière​​,​ with the help of a client and friend​​,​ and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement​​,​ Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring​​,​ first as a member​​,​ then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There​​,​ he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT)​​,​ a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca​​,​ Cifonelli​​,​ Smalto​​,​ and many other tailors​​,​ the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters)​​,​ who will later work for these ateliers. For instance​​,​ Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT​​,​ and one of Guilson's worker​​,​ Brahim Bouloujour​​,​ won Meilleur Ouvrier de France​​,​ before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79​​,​ André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018​​,​ and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped​​,​ crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca​​,​ but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler​​,​ for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats​​,​ along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a stunning ocher (ocre) mohair trousers​,​ made for André Guilson​​,​ by himself​​,​ in the 2000's. The fabric comes from a small Italian weaver called Facciolini​,​ in Teramo. A piece of history​​,​ it is an excellent garment with a linen or fresco sportcoat​,​ in shades of brown or blue​,​ during spring​ and summer. As always with Guilson​​,​​​​ everything is done by hand​​​,​​​ from the buttonhole to the pockets. There is notably a "point baguette". This is an handmade seam along the line of the trousers​​​​,​​​​ similar to what you could find on a tuxedo trousers​​​​,​​​​ but without the satin band. The conditions is excellent​​​,​​​ and was almost never worn. This piece has a high waist​​​​,​​​​ and is best suited for someone around 1m80. Here are the measurements Waist for trousers: 41cm (with 8cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 87cm Length total: 113cm (with 5cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 22cm (with 4cm of fabric to widen it) Trouser Cuffs: 5cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​,​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​​,​​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​​,​​​​​ Arnys​​​​​,​​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​,​​​​​ Urban​​​​​,​​​​​ Opelka​​​​​,​​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​​,​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​,​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​,​​​​​ Panico​​​​​,​​​​​ Ambrosi​​​​​,​​​​​ Rota - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​,​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​,​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​,​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​​,​​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​,​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​,​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

Trousers size - Waist: 31

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Plain

Length: Long

Colour: Orange

Location

About this seller

Guillaume A

Hello, I'm Guillaume A.

(No reviews)

Reviews (0)

    About this seller

    Guillaume A

    Hello, I'm Guillaume A.

    (No reviews)
    €345