Bespoke Guilson Tan Gabardine Wool Suit - 38/48L
Bespoke Guilson Tan Gabardine Wool Suit - 38​/​48L

Description

André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939​​,​ he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's​​,​ due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success​​,​ he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There​​,​ he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps​​,​ to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto​​,​ Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However​​,​ he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox)​​,​ he moved to the 16th Arrondissement​​,​ Avenue Victor Hugo​​,​ the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière​​,​ with the help of a client and friend​​,​ and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement​​,​ Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring​​,​ first as a member​​,​ then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There​​,​ he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT)​​,​ a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca​​,​ Cifonelli​​,​ Smalto​​,​ and many other tailors​​,​ the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters)​​,​ who will later work for these ateliers. For instance​​,​ Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT​​,​ and one of Guilson's worker​​,​ Brahim Bouloujour​​,​ won Meilleur Ouvrier de France​​,​ before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79​​,​ André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018​​,​ and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped​​,​ crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca​​,​ but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler​​,​ for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats​​,​ along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a beautiful tan gabardine wool suit​,​ made for André Guilson​​,​ by himself​​,​ in 1995. A piece of history​​,​ it will become the perfect companion during spring and summer​​,​ especially as a light summer suit. It features a stunning paisley silk lining​,​ along with all the details of a Guilson suit. As always with Guilson​​,​ it is fully handmade​​,​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​,​ from the shoulder to the collar. There are notably a classic french drop pocket (in the style of Camps de Luca) and a "point baguette". This is an handmade seam along the line of the trousers​​​​​,​​​​​ similar to what you could find on a tuxedo trousers​​​​​,​​​​​ but without the satin band. The conditions is excellent​​,​ and was almost never worn. The suit is best fitted for someone with a strong 38UK ​/​​50FR​​,​ or a slim 40UK​​/​​50FR size​​,​ around 1m80. Here are the measurements Shoulders: ​​44​,​5cm Sleeve length: 66cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 53cm Waist at button: 51cm Jacket length: 81cm (collar included​​​​,​​​​ with 4cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 9cm Waist for trousers: 41cm (with 8cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 80cm Length total: 110cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 22cm (with 4cm of fabric to widen it) Trouser Cuffs: 4cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​,​ Cifonelli​​,​ Francesco Smalto​​,​ Claude Rousseau​​,​ Arnys​​,​ Lanvin Mesure​​,​ Urban​​,​ Max Evzeline​​,​ Opelka​​,​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​,​ Rubinacci​​,​ Dalcuore​​,​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​,​ Henry Poole​​,​ Huntsman & Sons​​,​ Nutters of Savile Row​​,​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​,​ Richard Anderson​​,​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

UK size: 38

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Plain

Length: Long

Construction: Canvassed

Colour: Beige

Location

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