Bespoke Guilson Tweed Green Windowpane Suit - 42​/​52L
Bespoke Guilson Tweed Green Windowpane Suit - 42​​/​​52L

Description

André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939​​​,​​​ he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's​​​,​​​ due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success​​​,​​​ he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There​​​,​​​ he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps​​​,​​​ to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto​​​,​​​ Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However​​​,​​​ he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox)​​​,​​​ he moved to the 16th Arrondissement​​​,​​​ Avenue Victor Hugo​​​,​​​ the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière​​​,​​​ with the help of a client and friend​​​,​​​ and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement​​​,​​​ Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring​​​,​​​ first as a member​​​,​​​ then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There​​​,​​​ he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT)​​​,​​​ a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca​​​,​​​ Cifonelli​​​,​​​ Smalto​​​,​​​ and many other tailors​​​,​​​ the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters)​​​,​​​ who will later work for these ateliers. For instance​​​,​​​ Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT​​​,​​​ and one of Guilson's worker​​​,​​​ Brahim Bouloujour​​​,​​​ won Meilleur Ouvrier de France​​​,​​​ before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79​​​,​​​ André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018​​​,​​​ and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped​​​,​​​ crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca​​​,​​​ but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler​​​,​​​ for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats​​​,​​​ along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose an original piece made by André Guilson for himself: a grey tweed suit with green windowpanes. The cut is an homage to the "Zoot suits" of the 1930's and 1940's. Recognisable with its very wide and padded shoulders​,​ tight-waist​,​ and pegged trousers​,​ it was a staple of American style in jazz clubs. It was also a classic style in the 1950's with the French bespoke tailors​,​ such as Opelka​,​ Cumberland​,​ or Larsen​,​ notably for the actor Jean Gabin. As always with Guilson​​​,​​​ it is fully handmade​​​,​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​,​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent​​​,​​​ and was almost never worn. The suit is best fitted for someone with a strong 42UK​​/​​​52FR​​​,​​​ around 1m80. Here are the measurements Shoulders: ​​52cm Sleeve length: 63cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 56cm Waist at button: 53cm Jacket length: 83cm (collar included​​​​,​​​​ with 4cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 9cm Waist for trousers: 42cm (with 6cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 82cm Length total: 110cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 22cm (with 3cm of fabric to widen it) Trouser Cuffs: 4cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​,​​​ Cifonelli​​​,​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​,​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​,​​​ Arnys​​​,​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​,​​​ Urban​​​,​​​ Max Evzeline​​​,​​​ Opelka​​​,​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​,​​​ Rubinacci​​​,​​​ Dalcuore​​​,​​​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​,​​​ Henry Poole​​​,​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​,​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​,​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​,​​​ Richard Anderson​​​,​​​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

UK size: 42

Condition: As new

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Windowpane

Length: Long

Construction: Canvassed

Colour: Green, Grey

Location

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    Guillaume A

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