Bespoke F. Caraceni Grey Charcoal Jacket - 40/50L
Bespoke F. Caraceni Grey Charcoal Jacket - 40​/​50L

Description

Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the very best bespoke tailor in the world. While not a member of the Caraceni dynasty​​,​ he was a proud representative of the Milanese school of tailoring​​,​ similar (and perhaps better) to Augusto Caraceni. Born in 1923 in the same village as the master Domenico Caraceni (Ortona a Mare in the Abbruzo region)​​,​ Ferdinando began his tailoring work as an apprentice of several local tailors (Garzelli and Alessandro Cavaliere). At the age of 16​​,​ he went to Rome to learn more with Domenico Caraceni (already well known within the Roman scene). There​​,​ he assembled sleeves on coats and suits​​,​ made the necessary alterations between fitting and by experience understood the Caraceni style. He moved again in the late 1940's to Augusto Caraceni and learn even more with Augusto and his son Mario​​,​ even earning his shears to become a textile cutter. In 1967​​,​ he was ready to open his own shop​​,​ Via San Marco in Milan. Thanks to the numerous confusions between the Caracenis (the Roman branch managed by Domenico's brother Galliano and later Tommy & Giulio​​,​ the Milanese Branch with another brother Augusto and his descendants)​​,​ some celebrities wandered into his shop and fell in love with his style. That was notably the case with French couturier Yves Saint Laurent (notably his legendary double-breasted tan cotton suit). Other celebrities followed​​,​ like the Aga Khan​​,​ Silvio Berlusconi​​,​ Edmond de Rothschild​​,​ Gilberto Benetton​​,​ and Todd's founder Dieggo Della Valle. In the 1980’s​​,​ his daughter Nicoletta joined the atelier and learned his craft. When Ferdinando passed away in 2004​​,​ Nicoletta became the manager​,​ continuing the tradition of her father for more than 20 years​,​ making around 400 suits a year with the help of 8 tailors and cutters. She decided to retire at age 65 and the atelier will close without a successor. Caraceni suits can be defined in two words: beautiful and comfortable. They feature a nice pagoda shoulder​​​,​​​ a high but deep armhole​​​,​​​ a wide lapel with a good belly​​​,​​​ and pleated trousers for comfort. It is tighter on the waist than Augusto Caraceni​​,​ but it retains the same attention to detail as old Domenico Caraceni creations​​,​ with every stitching done by hand. Ferdinando Caraceni is particularly renowned for his double-breasted suits​​,​ either 6 on 1 or 6 on 2. They also only use english fabrics​​,​ preferring their weight and durability compared to Italian fabrics. I'm proposing a great example of their work: a grey charcoal jacket in a fine wool. It was made in 2004 for one member of the Wertheimer family. The Wertheimers are the owners of the luxury house Chanel. It is a great jacket for all seasons with a variety of trousers (navy​,​ white​,​ light grey​,​ beige​,​ yellow​,​ red​,​ green​,​ etc.). As always with Ferdinando Caraceni​​​,​​​​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​,​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is great​,​ except for the lining around the armholes who needs to be repaired (invisible when worn). The jacket is best fitted for someone with a 40UK​​​​​​​/​​​​​​​​50FR size​​​,​​​ around 1m80 tall. Here are the measurements: Shoulders: 45​​,​​5cm Sleeve length: 62​,​5cm (with 5​​,​​5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 53cm Waist at button: 52​​,​​5cm Jacket length: 84cm (collar included​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ with 3​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 10cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Arnys​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Max Evzeline​​​,​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Henri Urban​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Opelka​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Domenico or Augusto)​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Panico​​​​​ - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer Possible to try it in Paris 15th arrondissement.

Features

UK size: 39

Condition: Excellent

Patterns: Plain

Length: Short, Regular

Colour: Grey

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Guillaume A

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€805