Description

Tommy & Giulio Caraceni is one of the very best bespoke tailor in the world. The descendants of the original branch of the famous Caraceni family​,​ it is the embodiment of Italian bespoke tradition to this day. The story of the Caraceni begins with Domenico Caraceni. Domenico was the son and grand-son of tailors in the Abbruzo region of Italy. Domenico learnt with his father Tommaso and his brothers Galliano and Augusto​,​ notably by disassembling Savile Row sportcoats and suits (some suggested Henry Poole) to know how English tailors constructed garments. In 1913​,​ Domenico left his village to open his first atelier in Rome. His suits were a blend of Savile Row structured shoulders​,​ and the comfort and lightness of Italian tradition. His brothers join in him in the 1920's to help. In 1926 he moves to Via Boncompagni​,​ followed by new stores in Milan​,​ Paris (92 Avenue d'Iena)​,​ and shortly in Naples. Domenico and his brother build a good clientele​,​ made of celebrities such as Edward VIII (later Duker of Windsor)​,​ Douglas Fairbanks​,​ Josephine Baker for a famous tailcoat​,​ and a young Gianni Agnelli. In 1940​,​ as WW2 breaks out​,​ the Paris shop is closed and later on Domenico dies at the age of 60. After the war​,​ in 1946​,​ his brothers decides to manage one atelier each: Augusto will go to Milan (A. Caraceni)​,​ while Galliano will stay in Rome. Galliano managed the shop under the name Domenico Caraceni with the help of his sons Tommy & Giulio (who worked for Kilgour and Davies & Son)​,​ first Via Boncompagni and later Via Campania​,​ until the 1980's. Gianni Agnelli continued to be a regular customer​,​ as well as Luca di Montezemolo from Ferrari. Other celebrities and politicians followed (Giulio Andreotti​,​ Jacques Chirac​,​ Charles Aznavour​,​ Marcello Mastroianni​,​ Henry Fonda). They continue their work to this day. Caraceni suits can be defined in two words: beautiful and comfortable. They feature a nice pagoda shoulder​,​ a high but deep armhole​,​ a wide lapel with a good belly​,​ and pleated trousers for comfort. It is more relaxed than A Caraceni​,​ without losing the distinctive cut of Domenico Caraceni. I propose a beautiful Tommy & Giulio Caraceni double-breasted blazer in pure cashmere​,​ with gold buttons in a stunning camel colour. Made in 1998​,​ it is the perfect choice for a mid-season casual outfit​,​ with odd trousers in shades of blue​,​ brown​,​ grey​,​ or white. The shoulder is quite natural​,​ and still retains the characteristics of the classic roman style. The blazer has an 8 on 2 buttoning stance​,​ similar to what you could find on blazers from the Royal Navy. Oddly enough​,​ it doesn't have a breast pocket or inside pockets. As always with Tommy & Giulio Caraceni​,​​​​​ it is fully handmade​,​ from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent. The blazer is best fitted for someone with a 36UK​​​​​/​​​​​​46FR size​,​ around 1m75 tall. Here are the measurements: Shoulders: 41​,​5cm Sleeve length: 58cm (with 3​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 48​,​5cm Waist at button: 49​,​5cm Jacket length: 76cm (collar included​​​​,​​​​ with 4​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 11cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​​,​​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Arnys​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Max Evzeline​,​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Urban​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Opelka​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Domenico or Ferdinando)​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Panico​​​​​ - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer