Description
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni is one of the very best bespoke tailor in the world. The descendants of the original branch of the famous Caraceni family, it is the embodiment of Italian bespoke tradition to this day. The story of the Caraceni begins with Domenico Caraceni. Domenico was the son and grand-son of tailors in the Abbruzo region of Italy. Domenico learnt with his father Tommaso and his brothers Galliano and Augusto, notably by disassembling Savile Row sportcoats and suits (some suggested Henry Poole) to know how English tailors constructed garments. In 1913, Domenico left his village to open his first atelier in Rome. His suits were a blend of Savile Row structured shoulders, and the comfort and lightness of Italian tradition. His brothers join in him in the 1920's to help. In 1926 he moves to Via Boncompagni, followed by new stores in Milan, Paris (92 Avenue d'Iena), and shortly in Naples. Domenico and his brother build a good clientele, made of celebrities such as Edward VIII (later Duker of Windsor), Douglas Fairbanks, Josephine Baker for a famous tailcoat, and a young Gianni Agnelli. In 1940, as WW2 breaks out, the Paris shop is closed and later on Domenico dies at the age of 60. After the war, in 1946, his brothers decides to manage one atelier each: Augusto will go to Milan (A. Caraceni), while Galliano will stay in Rome. Galliano managed the shop under the name Domenico Caraceni with the help of his sons Tommy & Giulio (who worked for Kilgour and Davies & Son), first Via Boncompagni and later Via Campania, until the 1980's. Gianni Agnelli continued to be a regular customer, as well as Luca di Montezemolo from Ferrari. Other celebrities and politicians followed (Giulio Andreotti, Jacques Chirac, Charles Aznavour, Marcello Mastroianni, Henry Fonda). They continue their work to this day. Caraceni suits can be defined in two words: beautiful and comfortable. They feature a nice pagoda shoulder, a high but deep armhole, a wide lapel with a good belly, and pleated trousers for comfort. It is more relaxed than A Caraceni, without losing the distinctive cut of Domenico Caraceni. I propose a beautiful Tommy & Giulio Caraceni double-breasted blazer in pure cashmere, with gold buttons in a stunning camel colour. Made in 1998, it is the perfect choice for a mid-season casual outfit, with odd trousers in shades of blue, brown, grey, or white. The shoulder is quite natural, and still retains the characteristics of the classic roman style. The blazer has an 8 on 2 buttoning stance, similar to what you could find on blazers from the Royal Navy. Oddly enough, it doesn't have a breast pocket or inside pockets. As always with Tommy & Giulio Caraceni, it is fully handmade, from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent. The blazer is best fitted for someone with a 36UK/46FR size, around 1m75 tall. Here are the measurements: Shoulders: 41,5cm Sleeve length: 58cm (with 3,5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 48,5cm Waist at button: 49,5cm Jacket length: 76cm (collar included, with 4,5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 11cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Francesco Smalto, Claude Rousseau, Arnys, Max Evzeline, Lanvin Mesure, Urban, Opelka, Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Domenico or Ferdinando), Rubinacci, Dalcuore, Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, Huntsman & Sons, Nutters of Savile Row, Chittleborough & Morgan, Richard Anderson, Meyer & Mortimer
Features
UK size: 36
Condition: Excellent
Fabrication: Bespoke
Patterns: Plain
Length: Regular
Construction: Canvassed
Colour: Brown