Description

G. Marino was a bespoke tailor from Florence (Firenze in Italian). Not much is known about him​,​ but his cut follows precisely the school of florentine tailoring​,​ best represented today by Antonio Liverano​,​ from Liverano & Liverano. The florentine school has several main characteristics: a lack of front darts on the jacket or coat​,​ extended sloped shoulders​,​ rounded open quarters​,​ shorter length for the jacket and high button stance. The lack of front darts really show the work put in florentine tailoring​,​ since you need to master the cut of the jacket around the waist without using extra fabric. Instead​,​ darts are placed on the sides to create the illusion of the shape at the waist​,​ without using as much fabric. Therefore​,​ on a jacket with a bold pattern check (windowpane​,​ glen check​,​ gunclub​,​ blackwatch​,​ etc.)​,​ the pattern is not broken by the darts. To give a more masculine look to the jacket or coat​,​ without adding too much structure​,​ the shoulders are extended past the clavicle (similarly to french and roman tailors of the 1950's)​,​ creating the impression of broader shoulders. The open quarters at the bottom of the jacket has a similar fonction​,​ but giving the impression of a tight waist​,​ without suppressing it. The florentine school gives you a light construction​,​ like the Neapolitan style​,​ while flatteringly hugging the body​,​ like the Milanese and Roman style. It was popularised recently​,​ especially in Asia (Japan​,​ Korea and Hong-Kong)​,​ by boutiques such as The Armoury (who created a partnership with Liverano in 2011)​,​ as well as several local tailors who were trained and worked in Florence in the late 1990's and early 2000's. I'm proposing a great example of this school's style by Marino: a single-breasted 3 roll 2 grey wool coat​,​ in a bold herringbone pattern from an english mill. Made in 1984​,​ it will become your favorite coat for the winter months and for the countryside. It is warm but not too heavy​,​ with a mid-calf length​,​ and is the perfect piece to protect you from the cold. As always in Florence​,​​​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​​​​,​​​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​​​,​​​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. It features an hidden back buttoned closure​,​ so to give more comfort while you're sitting (similar to a polo coat). The conditions is excellent. The coat is best fitted for someone with a 36UK​​​​​/​​​​​​46FR​​ size​​​​,​​​​ around 1m75. Here are the measurements: Shoulders: 43​,​5cm Sleeve length: 59cm (with 4​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 51cm Waist at button: 50​,​5cm Coat length: 103​,​5cm (collar included​​​​​,​​​​​ with 5​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 10​,​5cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​,​ Claude Rousseau​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Arnys​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Henri Urban​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Max Evzeline​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Opelka​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​,​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement