Description

Arnys was a legendary French house synonymous with the Parisian school of tailoring. Founded in 1933 by Jankel Grimbert​,​ it slowly grew in reputation as a shirtmaker. But it's only in 1957​,​ when his grandsons Michel and Jean Grimbert decided to move to 14 Rue de Sèvres in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés​,​ that Arnys found true success. With the Trente Glorieuses​,​ the Parisian intelligentsia and bourgeoisie wanted new things​,​ far from the conservative and stiff suits of their forefathers. Some went to Joseph Camps and later Francesco Smalto for new and daring cuts​,​ while others choose a more laid-back style​,​ reminiscent of the countryside and the english gentry. Arnys first "new" clients were medicine students​,​ friends of the Grimbert​,​ since the college was close by.Then followed the socialites and the artists​,​ from Montparnasse and the Café de Flore. By the 1960's​,​ all the intellectuals went to Arnys (Jean-Paul Sartre​,​ André Gide​,​ Boris Vian). Even Pablo Picasso ordered a few jackets. The consecration for Arnys was the design of a very unique jacket: the Forestière. Made for the famous architect Le Corbusier​,​ it was a work jacket inspired by forest guard in the Sologne region. Loose-fitted with a raglan shoulder and turn-up cuffs​,​ it was made to guarantee ample movements without the structure of a a more formal jacket. First in moleskin​,​ Arnys expanded the Forestière to a rainbow of colours​,​ fabrics (from linen to cashmere) and details (quilted​,​ embroidered​,​ unlined). It was the must-have for any successful artist living in Paris. Arnys made several other jackets​,​ coats​,​ shoes​,​ shirts and ties​,​ in the same vein with bold colours and intricate details​,​ such as the Cornac​,​ the Campus​,​ or the Depart​,​ working only with the best makers (Isaia​,​ Belvest​,​ Lobb​,​ Ugolini​,​ Ballantyne) and fabrics (cashmere​,​ camelhair​,​ lambswool​,​ deerskin​,​ etc.). They also decided to propose bespoke products​,​ mainly suits​,​ in the purest Parisian fashion (Parisian lapel​,​ cigarette shoulder​,​ entirely handmade). Going to Arnys became like a pilgrimage for dandies and connaisseurs. Artists​,​ poets and authors even wrote the foreword of their annual catalogue. With such reputation​,​ many other clients came to Arnys​,​ notably politicians from both the Left and the Right​,​ as well as CEO's. By 2013​,​ Arnys was acquired by the luxury group LVMH and merged with the shoemaker Berluti. The name is now gone but still fondly remembered by clients and admirers. In 2017​,​ Arnys made the headline again during the French Presidential Campaign when the Conservative candidate was accused of receiving several bespoke suits and jackets for free from a political operative. A bespoke suit costed around 7500 euros at the time. After more than 90 years​,​ the name Arnys is still a symbol of power and influence in Paris and in the world of tailoring. I propose a classic example of Arnys work: a two-button charcoal grey jacket in flannel with their iconic Parisian lapel. Made in the 2000's by Caruso for their line "Cousu Main" (handstitched)​,​ the model is called "Paris". It will become your favorite sportcoat for the mid-season and winter months with a variety of trousers (white​,​ blue​,​ red​,​ green​,​ brown​,​ yellow​,​ etc.). It pairs very well with corduroy​,​ flannels​,​ whipcord and cavalry twill. As always with Arnys​​​,​​​ it is of the upmost quality​​​,​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​,​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is like new. The jacket is best fitted for someone with a 40UK​​/​​​50FR​​ size around 1m75​,​​​ despite the label stating a 42​/​52 size​​. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 45cm Sleeve length: 62cm (with 5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 53cm Waist at button: 52cm Jacket length: 82cm (collar included​​​​,​​​​ with 4cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 9cm Quality equivalent to the following houses: Cesare Attolini​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Cifonelli (RTW)​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Ermenegildo Zegna (Su Misura)​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Kiton​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Liverano & Liverano​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Loro Piana​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Ralph Lauren (Purple Label)​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Santandrea (Saint Andrews)​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Stefano Ricci​​​​​,​​​​​ Tom Ford​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Zilli Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement.