Bespoke 1969 Anderson & Sheppard DB Navy Coat - 40/50R
Bespoke 1969 Anderson & Sheppard DB Navy Coat - 40​/​50R

Description

Anderson & Sheppard is a legend of English tailoring and the epitome of Savile Row’s style. Founded in 1906 by Peter Gustav Anderson at 13 Savile Row as Per Anderson​​,​ it became over the years a renowned tailoring house. However​​,​ it was with the addition of tailor and cutter Frederik Scholte​​,​ another Savile Row tailor (working from 7 Savile Row at the time)​​,​ that the house truly earned its iconic style: the drape cut. Created as a reaction to the Victorian and Edwardian style common with English tailoring (tight waist and chest​​,​ narrow lapels​​,​ high-rise and tapered trousers​​,​ mostly inspired by military dress)​​,​ the drape cut could be defined in one word: movement. The chest has a fuller cut​​,​ while the small high armhole and natural shoulders maintain the collar on the wearer’s neck. This “soft tailoring”​​,​ almost anathema to Savile Row military tradition​​,​ obtained an important patronage early on: the Prince of Wales​​,​ later Duke of Windsor. With another addition​​,​ trouser cutter Sydney Horatio Sheppard​​,​ the house became Anderson & Sheppard and in 1927 moved to a bigger shop on 30 Savile Row​​,​ where it would stay for almost 80 years. The 1930s were a golden era for Anderson & Sheppard. Many artists flocked to its doors​​,​ including many Hollywood actors. The most notable are Charlie Chaplin​​,​ Rudolph Valentino​​,​ Douglas Fairbanks Jr.​​,​ Gary Cooper​​,​ Laurence Olivier​​,​ George Gershwin​​,​ and of course Fred Astaire. After WW2​​,​ Anderson & Sheppard maintained their reputation as one of the best tailors in the world. From a rebellious tailor​​,​ it was seen by the 1960’s as an institution on par with older names such as Henry Poole​​,​ Davies & Son​​,​ and Huntsman. Only the arrival of Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton rocked the overall quiet of the Row. Anderson & Sheppard continued on and gained the patronage of another Prince of Wales​,​ Charles​​,​ today’s King Charles III​​,​ who remained a devoted client. However​​,​ that doesn’t mean Anderson & Sheppard didn’t move with the times. The famous cutter John Hitchcock​​,​ trained by the legendary Charles Bryant​​,​ modernised their cut to fit the taste of a younger clientele while keeping its style. In 1983​​,​ Mr. Hitchcock became managing director and earned a Royal Warrant by 1989. New clients included director Martin Scorsese​​,​ French industrialist and art patron Pierre Bergé​​,​ and writer Fran Leibowitz. Fran Leibowitz was only the second woman to have the right to commission a bespoke jacket at Anderson & Sheppard in the 2000’s​​,​ after Marlene Dietrich. By 2005​​,​ almost a century after its founding​​,​ Anderson & Sheppard moved to another address​​,​ 32 Old Burlington Street​​,​ only a few meters away from their former location. Its style and cut remain the same since. In 2012​​,​ Anderson & Sheppard decided to open a haberdashery at 17 Clifford Street​​,​ to offer new items such as shirts​​,​ knitwear​​,​ ties and trousers (ready-to-wear and made-to-order)​​,​ for clients who wants more casual clothing to complement their best suits and jackets. I propose an incredible example of their work: a navy blue double breasted coat with a subtle herringbone pattern. Made in 1969 in a sturdy wool​,​ it is a stunning piece that can be worn with your best business suit​,​ or with a heavy sweater or a tweed jacket for a more casual look. It will become your favorite coat and will last you a lifetime. As always with Anderson & Sheppard​,​​​ it is fully handmade​​​,​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​,​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent​,​ especially for its age. Coat hanger is not included. The coat is best fitted for someone with a 40UK​​/​​​50FR​​ size​,​ around 1m75. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 45cm Sleeve length: 63cm (with 6cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 54cm Waist at button: 52cm Coat length: 111cm (collar included​​​​​​,​​​​​​ with 7cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 11cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​,​​​ Cifonelli​​​,​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​,​​​ Claude Rousseau​,​ Arnys​​​,​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​,​​​ Henri Urban​​​,​​​ Max Evzeline​​​,​​​ Opelka​​​,​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​,​​​ Rubinacci​​​,​​​ Dalcuore​​​,​​​ Panico - In England: Henry Poole​​​,​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​,​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​,​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​,​​​ Richard Anderson​​​,​​​ Meyer & Mortimer Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement.

Features

UK size: 40

Condition: Excellent

Patterns: Herringbone

Length: Long, Regular

Colour: Navy

About this seller

Guillaume A

Hello, I'm Guillaume A.

(No reviews)

About this seller

Guillaume A

Hello, I'm Guillaume A.

(No reviews)
€1,380