Description
André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939, he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's, due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success, he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There, he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps, to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto, Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However, he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox), he moved to the 16th Arrondissement, Avenue Victor Hugo, the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière, with the help of a client and friend, and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement, Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring, first as a member, then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There, he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT), a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto, and many other tailors, the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters), who will later work for these ateliers. For instance, Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT, and one of Guilson's worker, Brahim Bouloujour, won Meilleur Ouvrier de France, before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79, André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018, and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped, crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca, but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler, for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats, along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a stunning Ulster Coat in pure camelhair, made for André Guilson, by himself, in the 2000's. A piece of history, it will become the perfect companion during the winter months. The cut is inspired by the classic polo coat, with its turn-up cuffs, letterbox pockets, generous collar, and of course pure camelhair. It will protect you from all kind of weathers. As always with Guilson, it is fully handmade, from the lining to the buttonholes, from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent, and was probably never worn. The coat is best fitted for someone with a strong 40UK/50FR, or a slim 42UK/52FR size, around 1m80. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 47cm Sleeve length: 67cm Chest: 53cm Waist at button: 52,5cm Coat length: 122cm (collar included, with 5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 11cm Cuffs: 7cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Francesco Smalto, Claude Rousseau, Arnys, Lanvin Mesure, Henri Urban, Max Evzeline, Opelka, Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico), Rubinacci, Dalcuore, Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, Huntsman & Sons, Nutters of Savile Row, Chittleborough & Morgan, Richard Anderson, Meyer & Mortimer
Features
UK size: 40
Condition: Excellent
Patterns: Plain
Length: Long
Colour: Brown