Description

Brano is without a doubt the best Parisian tailoring house right now​,​ only known for the discerning few. Brano is the creation of two incredible talents: Brahim Bouloujour (a Master Tailor for more than 35 years and Meilleur Ouvrier de France since 2008) and Norbert Naitmazi (managing seller for Francesco Smalto Couture​,​ their bespoke division). The name Brano is the contraction of their two first names (BRAhim and NOrbert). Brahim Bouloujour is the last traditional Parisian tailor. Born in Casablanca​,​ he began working at 11 years old with the local tailors. In the 1970's​,​ Morocco was the centre of many styles of tailoring​,​ thanks to Italian​,​ Spanish​,​ and French expatriates. Trained by the official supplier of the Royal House​,​ Luigi​,​ he discovered the Parisian style of the court and of course then-King Hassan II. At age 21​,​ he was already chief manager of the atelier. However​,​ he wanted to do more and by 1987​,​ following the example of Francesco Smalto​,​ he decided to go to Paris to learn the real Parisian style from the great houses: Camps de Luca​,​ Claude Rousseau​,​ and Cifonelli. He met the Master Tailor Guilson (who worked for Camps de Luca and Smalto) who took him under his wing. After seven years​,​ he mastered the Parisian style. In 1994​,​ he went to Italy and worked for Tommy & Giulio Caraceni in Rome to see what the Italian masters were capable of. While the Italians were not as precise in the details and finishing of the suit​,​ their sense of proportions​,​ lightness and flair are unparalleled​,​ and Brahim Bouloujour incorporated those ideas in his creations. By 2001​,​ the great Claude Rousseau (probably the best Parisian cutter of all-time with Joseph Camps and Francesco Smalto) sold his atelier to Cifonelli and he decided to join them. During this time​,​ he worked with the semi-retired Rousseau who shaped his own style and cut​,​ as well as the intricate details and finishing of a real Parisian jacket. In 2007​,​ it was time for him to make his own path. Partnering with Norbert Naitmazi​,​ who personally worked with Francesco Smalto for many years and completely understood his aesthetic​,​ they opened Brano. The atelier was first located 8 Avenue Percier in the 8th Arrondissement​,​ but quickly changed to 6 Avenue Pasquier in the Madeleine district​,​ before moving again to its current location​,​ 32 Rue de Penthièvre​,​ a few steps from the Bristol Palace. Under the advice of Guilson​,​ Brahim Bouloujour passed the exam for Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2008​,​ the hardest competition for artisans and craftsmen in France​,​ held once every four years. He easily won the medal by crafting a stunning silk dinner jacket that took him more than 50 hours. Brahim Bouloujour continues to produce some of the most exquisite suits​,​ jackets​,​ coats​,​ and trousers in Paris​,​ all by hand​,​ in the purest tradition. His clients are prominent lawyers​,​ diplomats​,​ celebrities​,​ and heads-of-state. I'm proposing a great example of his work: a three-button navy suit (almost black) with a very subtle herringbone pattern​,​ in a luxurious super 150's wool. Made in 2007 for the son of Norbert Naitmazi​,​ it is the perfect suit for business and formal occasions​,​ from spring to autumn​,​ with your best oxfords. It notably features his classic parisian lapel​ and cigarette shoulder​,​ his original drop pocket in the shape of the Eiffel Tower​,​ and even a "point baguette" (an handmade seam along the line of the trousers​​​​,​​​​ similar to what you could find on a tuxedo trousers​​​​,​​​​ but without the satin band). As always with ​Brahim Bouloujour​,​​​​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar as well as the trousers. The suit also includes a bespoke belt made in the same fabric as the suit. The condition is as new. The suit is best fitted for someone with a 36UK​​​​​​/​​​​​​​46FR​​ size​​​​​,​​​​​ around 1m75. Here are the measurements: Shoulders: 43cm Sleeve length: 62cm (with 5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 50cm Waist at button: 49cm Jacket length: 79cm (collar included​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ with 4​​,​​5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 8cm Waist for trousers: 39cm (with 7cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 75cm Length total: 102cm (with 8cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 20cm (with 5cm of fabric to widen it) Belt length: 95cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​,​​ Cifonelli​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Arnys​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Henri Urban​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Max Evzeline​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Opelka​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement.