Description

Tommy & Giulio Caraceni is one of the very best bespoke tailors in the world. The descendants of the original branch of the famous Caraceni family​,​ it is the embodiment of Italian bespoke tradition to this day. The story of the Caraceni begins with Domenico Caraceni. Domenico was the son and grandson of tailors in the Abbruzo region of Italy. Domenico learnt with his father Tommaso and his brothers Galliano and Augusto​,​ notably by disassembling Savile Row sportcoats and suits (some suggested Henry Poole) to know how English tailors constructed garments. In 1913​,​ Domenico left his village to open his first atelier in Rome. His suits were a blend of Savile Row structured shoulders​,​ and the comfort and lightness of Italian tradition. His brothers join in him in the 1920's to help. In 1926 he moves to Via Boncompagni​,​ followed by new stores in Milan​,​ Paris (92 Avenue d'Iena)​,​ and shortly in Naples. Domenico and his brother build a good clientele​,​ made of celebrities such as Edward VIII (later Duke of Windsor)​,​ Douglas Fairbanks​,​ Josephine Baker for a famous tailcoat​,​ and a young Gianni Agnelli. In 1940​,​ as WW2 breaks out​,​ the Paris shop is closed​,​ and later Domenico dies at the age of 60. After the war​,​ in 1946​,​ his brothers decide to manage one atelier each: Augusto will go to Milan (A. Caraceni)​,​ while Galliano will stay in Rome. Galliano managed the shop under the name Domenico Caraceni with the help of his sons Tommy & Giulio (who worked for Kilgour and Davies & Son)​,​ first Via Boncompagni and later Via Campania​,​ until the 1980's. Gianni Agnelli continued to be a regular customer​,​ as well as Luca di Montezemolo from Ferrari. Other celebrities and politicians followed (Giulio Andreotti​,​ Jacques Chirac​,​ Charles Aznavour​,​ Marcello Mastroianni​,​ Henry Fonda). They continue their work to this day. Caraceni suits can be defined in two words: beautiful and comfortable. They feature a nice pagoda shoulder​,​ a high but deep armhole​,​ a wide lapel with a good belly​,​ and pleated trousers for comfort. It is more relaxed than A Caraceni​,​ without losing the distinctive cut of Domenico Caraceni. I propose a stunning example of their work: a charcoal grey 3 roll 2 suit with a subtle blue windowpane. Made in 1995​,​​​ it is a beautiful business suit​,​ perfect for all occasions from spring to autumn. As always with Caraceni​​​​​,​​​​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. The condition is like new. The suit is best fitted for a 40UK​​​/​​​50FR size​​​,​​​ around 1m80 Here are the measurements Shoulders: 46​,​5cm Sleeve length: 64cm (with 4​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 50cm Waist at button: 51cm Jacket length: 85cm (collar included​​​​​​,​​​​​​ with 4cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 8​,​5cm Waist for trousers: 43cm (with 7​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 78cm Length total: 108cm (with 6cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 23cm (with 4cm of fabric to widen it) Cuffs: 4​,​5cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Claude Rousseau​,​ Max Evzeline​​​,​​​ Arnys​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Henri Urban​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Opelka​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Panico​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Ambrosi​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Rota - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement.