Bespoke Guilson Tan Gabardine Cotton Trousers - W36​/​46
Bespoke Guilson Tan Gabardine Cotton Trousers - W36​​/​​46

Description

André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939​​​,​​​ he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's​​​,​​​ due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success​​​,​​​ he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There​​​,​​​ he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps​​​,​​​ to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto​​​,​​​ Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However​​​,​​​ he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox)​​​,​​​ he moved to the 16th Arrondissement​​​,​​​ Avenue Victor Hugo​​​,​​​ the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière​​​,​​​ with the help of a client and friend​​​,​​​ and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement​​​,​​​ Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring​​​,​​​ first as a member​​​,​​​ then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There​​​,​​​ he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT)​​​,​​​ a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca​​​,​​​ Cifonelli​​​,​​​ Smalto​​​,​​​ and many other tailors​​​,​​​ the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters)​​​,​​​ who will later work for these ateliers. For instance​​​,​​​ Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT​​​,​​​ and one of Guilson's worker​​​,​​​ Brahim Bouloujour​​​,​​​ won Meilleur Ouvrier de France​​​,​​​ before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79​​​,​​​ André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018​​​,​​​ and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped​​​,​​​ crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca​​​,​​​ but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler​​​,​​​ for whom he made countless suits and sportcoats​​​,​​​ along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a beautiful tan gabardine cotton trousers​​,​​​ made for André Guilson​​​,​​​ by himself​​​,​​​ in the 2000's. A piece of history​​​,​​​ it is an excellent garment with a linen or fresco sportcoat​​,​ in shades of brown or blue​​,​ during spring​ and summer. As always with Guilson​​,​​​​ everything is done by hand​​​,​​​ from the buttonhole to the pockets. There is notably a "point baguette". This is an handmade seam along the line of the trousers​​​​,​​​​ similar to what you could find on a tuxedo trousers​​​​,​​​​ but without the satin band. The conditions is excellent​​​,​​​ and was almost never worn. This piece has a high waist​​​​,​​​​ and is best suited for someone around 1m80. Here are the measurements Waist for trousers: 46cm (with 8cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 78cm Length total: 108cm (with 5cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 23cm (with 4cm of fabric to widen it) Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​,​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​​,​​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​​,​​​​​ Arnys​​​​​,​​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​,​​​​​ Urban​​​​​,​​​​​ Opelka​​​​​,​​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​​,​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​,​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​,​​​​​ Panico​​​​​,​​​​​ Ambrosi​​​​​,​​​​​ Rota - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​,​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​,​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​,​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​​,​​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​,​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​,​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

Trousers size - Waist: 36

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Plain

Length: Long

Colour: Beige

Location

About this seller

Guillaume A

Hello, I'm Guillaume A.

(No reviews)

Reviews (0)

    About this seller

    Guillaume A

    Hello, I'm Guillaume A.

    (No reviews)
    €345