Bespoke Henry Poole Navy Blue Sportcoat - 42​/​52L COLLECTOR
Bespoke Henry Poole Navy Blue Sportcoat - 42​​/​​52L COLLECTOR

Description

Henry Poole is an institution of English tailoring and the very definition of Savile Row: tradition​​,​ perfect cut​​,​ and quality of construction and craft. First a linen draper on Everett Street​​,​ James Poole created military tunics during the Napoleonic Wars and became a known tailor in London by 1815​​,​ opening a showroom on Regent Street and by 1828 on Old Burlington Street​​,​ with an entrance to Savile Row. By 1846​​,​ his son Henry took over and quickly grew a new clientele within the aristocracy and nascent bourgeoisie by proposing hunting and equestrian garments. The atelier was then moved directly on Savile Row​​,​ first on 36-39 and to its current address​​,​ 15 Savile Row​​,​ in 1982. His success was so immense that he received an imperial warrant from Napoleon III in 1858 and a royal warrant from Queen Victoria in 1869. However​​,​ it was his relationship with the Prince of Wales and future King Edward VII that cemented his reputation as an incredible tailor. When “Bertie” (as he was known by his friends and family) asked in 1865 Henry Poole to make a shortened tailcoat for informal dinners at Sandringham​​,​ Poole obliged and presented a new kind of garment: the evening jacket​​,​ later known as the Dinner Jacket in England​​,​ or Tuxedo in the United States (because of the Tuxedo Park Club​​,​ a gathering of the high society of New York City who followed the Prince of Wales example). The atelier was later passed to Henry Poole’s Cousin in 1876​​,​ Samuel Cundey. The Cundey still owns the atelier after more than six generations. Henry Poole​​,​ during its long history​​,​ is the favourite tailor of heads-of-state​​,​ writers​​,​ kings​​,​ and emperors since 1846. You can view a list of the clientele on their website here: https://henrypoole.com/hall-of-fame. Some of Poole’s clients include Charles Dickens​​,​ Winston Churchill (notably his famous “Siren Suit” during the Blitz)​​,​ the Kings and Queens of England since Victoria​​,​ the Emperors of Japan​​,​ Ulysses S. Grant​​,​ Charles de Gaulle​​,​ French President Valery Giscard d’Estaing and Prime Minister Edouard Balladur​​,​ as well as countless others. After more than 200 years​​,​ Henry Poole & Co. continues to make beautiful garments for the city​​,​ the countryside​​,​ as well as liveries for ceremonies​​,​ respecting tradition and craft. Their cut is quintessentially English: a structured and wide roped shoulder (although not as strong as Huntsman)​​,​ small drape on the chest​​,​ low gorge​​,​ and a straight cut for the trousers. It is the classic style you would find on Savile Row​​,​ and the very definition of understatement. I propose a classic navy blue sportcoat​,​ in a subtle herringbone pattern by Henry Poole. It is an excellent choice for an autumn to spring sportcoat​,​ with almost every trousers in your wardrobe. Made in 2005​​,​ it belonged to the late President of France​,​ Valery Giscard d'Estaing (also known as VGE). Mr. Giscard d'Estaing was the french President from 1974 to 1981​,​ and later became a member of the French Parliament​,​ of the European Parliament​,​ of the Constitutional Council of France​,​ and of the Académie Française. He also was a political leader in France and in Europe for more than 50 years​,​ and one of the founder of the European Union. He passed away at the age of 94 in 2020. As always with Henry Poole​,​ it is fully handmade​​​​,​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​,​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent. The sportcoat is best fitted for a 42UK ​/​​​​52FR size​​​​,​ around 1m85 tall. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 47cm Sleeve length: 68cm (with 5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 55cm Waist at button: 56cm Jacket length: 88cm (collar included​​​​​,​​​​​ with 5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 8​​,​​5cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​,​​​ Cifonelli​​​​,​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​,​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​,​​​​ Arnys​​​​,​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​,​​​​ Urban​​​​,​​​​ Max Evzeline​​​​,​​​​ Opelka​​​​,​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​,​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​,​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​,​​​​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​,​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​,​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​,​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​,​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​,​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer

Features

UK size: 42

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Herringbone

Length: Long

Construction: Canvassed

Colour: Navy

Location

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    €1,150