Description

Jan Kielman is a polish bespoke shoemaker. Founded in 1883, it is the oldest shoemaker in Warsaw and a reference in the world of shoemaking to this day. Jan Kielman Sr. began working in Warsaw around 1880 in the many shoemaking shops in the city. Three years later, he received the title of "master" with the leather craft guild, an order dating back to the 14th century, and opened a small shop on 3 Chmielna Street. As the economy grew, and thanks to his wife, his reputation prospered as one of the rare shoemaker to propose beautifully crafted shoes and leather garments, without mechanising his production. As WW1 ended and the Polish-Soviet War of 1920 raged on, Jan went to Belgium to learn more about business and shoemaking production. He obtained an internship with Bally in Switzerland, one of the leading firm of ready-to-wear and made-to-measure shoes of the early 20th century. He was awarded the title of "master shoemaker" upon his return, making him one of the best shoemaker in the country, along with Hiszpański (a specialist of evening shoes) and Niedziński (a reputed maker of riding boots). The roaring twenties were a peak in celebrity for Mr Kielman. In 1921, he made for a young french colonel a pair of shoes. This colonel was the future General and President of France, Charles de Gaulle. In 1927, the King of Afghanistan Amanullah Khan decided to commission 200 pairs of slippers to Jan Kielman, claiming he couldn't find better ones elsewhere. Other clients followed, from heads-of-state to actors and the local inteligentsia, including Polish President Ignacy Mościcki, General Władysław Sikorski, Jan Kiepura, Adolf Dymsza, Mieczysława Ćwiklińska, Stefan Wiechecki, Wiech, Marian Brandys and many more. When WW2 struck, it was a devastating blow for the Kielmans, who lost everything during those dark times. The shop was reopened after the war by his son Waclaw, but due to the Cold War and Soviet rule, it struggled until the 1970's when the economy grew again. Unfortunately, the situation would not last. When Jan Jr., son of Waclaw took over by 1982 with the help of his wife Leokadia, the economy was in free fall, with high inflation and shortages all around. However private small businesses were allowed, so the shop quietly grew again. Since the fall of the Berlin Wall, the shop regained its former glory, with the help of the fourth generation of Kielmans, Maciek. Having access to the best skins from tanneries all around the world. they offer a complete range of bespoke shoes, including exotic leathers. In 2008, they celebrated their 125th anniversary, along with their 15 workers and several apprentices. They continue to work to this day, and found a new clientele that discovered their work through trunk shows, experiences on the internet, and a very reasonable price offer for bespoke shoes compared to London, Rome or Paris, in the same vein as Lazlo Vass, Saint Crispin's and other excellent Eastern European shoemakers. Jan Kielman style is similar to the tradition of Polish shoemaking: sturdy shoes with an indestructible construction, conservative lasts and a practical aesthetic like the Polish version of the Budapester. However, they also propose more refined lasts and original models, including the use of exotic leathers like crocodile or lizard, but always with perfect taste and classic style. The shoes I'm proposing are typical of Kielman style: bespoke derbies made with an almond shaped last in a brown lizard skin (probably Iguana). These shoes blend the preciousness of exotic leather with the sturdiness of the construction and the elegance of the last, giving it a similar look and feel as a grained leather countryside derby. These shoes can be worn a flannel suit, a tweed jacket and corduroys during the winter, or with linen during the summer. You can also wear them with cotton or even with denim trousers. As always with Jan Kielman, they are entirely handmade, from the welt to the upper and the heel. The condition is excellent, aside from a small tear on the side of the left shoe. It has been properly repaired since, and the stitches are only slightly visible. Steel toe taps and sole guards have been added to increase the durabilty of the shoes. The size is approximately a 8UK/42EU. Check the measurements below to be sure it fits you: Length left shoe: 29,2cm Length right shoe: 28,9cm Width left shoe: 10,2cm Width right shoe: 10,1cm The quality is equivalent to the following bespoke houses: - In England: John Lobb Ltd Bootmaker, Nikolaus Tuczek, Dominic Casey, Foster & Son, Gaziano & Girling, Henri Maxwell - In Italy: Stefano Bemer, Freccia Bestetti, Gatto, Marini, Pettrocchi, Beppino Rampin, Roberto Ugolini, - In France: Aubercy Bespoke, Berluti Bespoke, Corthay Bespoke, John Lobb Paris Bespoke, Massaro Bespoke, Philippe Atienza