Description

Kenjiro Suzuki​,​ along with Florian Sirven (now head-cutter for Berluti)​,​ is one of the last modern cutters to embody the school of Parisian tailoring​,​ after years working both for Francesco Smalto Kenjiro was born in Tokyo in 1976. In 2003​,​ after working as a couturier under numerous designers he went to France​,​ being attracted to its world-renowned tradition of haute-couture. He decided to join the Academie Internationale de Coupe de Paris (a training school for young couturier and modeler) where he graduated at the top of his class. He learned how to create a suit from nothing​,​ using the Daroux-Vauclair method​,​ created by Paul Vauclair (personal tailor for Charles de Gaulle​,​ and an exemple of the old Parisian tailoring school). He received his diploma in 2004​,​ and went on to join the famous Parisian house Arnys (known worldwide for their unique jackets such as the Forestière). He also worked for the Brussels store Maison Degand​,​ followed by Lanvin​,​ and even Camps de Luca. Camps de Luca is famous for being the founder​,​ thanks to the genius of Joseph Camps​,​ of the modern school of Parisian tailoring (notably with the Parisian fishmouth lapel and the cigarette shoulder). There​,​ Kenjiro worked as a couturier before climbing the ranks as an apiéceur (preparing and sewing together the different parts of a garment after the cutter drew the pattern). His work and talent were quickly recognised by one of the best bespoke houses in Paris: Francesco Smalto. Francesco Smalto has a rich history of bespoke tailoring​,​ thanks to its founder (a Joseph Camps alumni) and the precision and quality of its cut and pattern making. Kenjiro was brought in as a cutter and technical director in 2007. In 2009​,​ he was promoted again as chief-cutter​,​ the first Japanese person to be appointed as such in a French bespoke atelier. After 5 years working with Smalto​,​ he decided he was finally ready to open his atelier. Kenjiro Suzuki Sur Mesure begins in 2012​,​ at the 38 Rue de Penthièvre​,​ next to the Bristol Palace (and close to another great Parisian tailor​,​ Brahim Bouloujour​,​ also know as Brano). His atelier and work are truly representative of the Smalto (and Camps de Luca) school of tailoring: Parisian fishmouth lapel​,​ stunning fabrics (Zegna​,​ Loro Piana​,​ Drapers​,​ Caccioppoli​,​ Holland & Sherry)​,​ and a perfect attention to details. However​,​ Kenjiro blends tradition with other inspirations​,​ notably Neapolitan in regards to the shoulder. No padding and freedom of movement is key. Kenjiros style is therefore a blend of Parisian and Italian savoir-faire. I propose a stunning exemple of his work: a double-breasted charcoal grey suit​,​ in a fine fresco wool from Holland & Sherry. Made in 2020​,​ it is the perfect business suit from spring to autumn​,​ as well as formal occasions​,​ with your best oxfords or loafers. As always with Kenjiro Suzuki​​​​​,​​​​​​​​​​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​​​​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​​​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar​​,​​ as well as the trousers. It features its unique drop pocket​​​,​​​ light shoulders​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ precise lining cut​​,​ two side-adjusters​,​ and even a rare "point baguette" (an handmade seam along the line of the trousers​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ similar to what you could find on a tuxedo trousers​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​ but without the satin band). The condition is as new. The suit is best fitted for someone with a 36UK​​​​​/​​​​​46FR​ size​​​​,​​​​​ around 1m70 tall. Here are the measurements: Shoulders: 43cm Sleeve length: 60cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 49cm Waist at button: 48cm Jacket length: 74cm (collar included​​​​​​,​​​​​​ with 3cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 12cm Waist for trousers: 41cm (with 7cm of fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 73cm Length total: 97cm (with 8cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 20cm (with 4cm of fabric to widen it) Cuffs: 4​,​5cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​​,​​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Arnys​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Henri Urban​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Max Evzeline​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Opelka - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement.