Description

Sartoria Caliendo began with Biagio Caliendo in the town of Casalnuovo outside of Naples. This was the birthplace of many neapolitan tailor since the 1930's​,​ and Biagio was no exception. Starting at 6 years old​,​ he learned with the local tailors for ten years after school. He then decided to open his own sartoria in Naples in 1961​,​ Via Cappella Vecchia in the Chiaia district​,​ close to the very best such as Rubinacci (at the time known as London House)​,​ Cesare Attolini​,​ Angelo Blasi​,​ as well as Marinella. They will later be joined by Dalcuore​,​ Kiton​,​ Panico​,​ Isaia​,​ and many more​,​ making Naples the new place for tailoring​,​ outside of the classics of Savile Row​,​ Milan and Paris. Biagio is seconded since 1992 by his son Elia​,​ who continues the tradition by making light and comfortable suits​,​ jackets and coats for those who seek a classic neapolitan style. As such​,​ he is both the cutter and fitter​,​ proposing a few trunk shows in other cities such as London and Hamburg. The style of the Sartoria Caliendo is typical of Neapolitan tailoring: a soft shoulder (the famous spalla camicia or shirt shoulder due its weightlessness)​,​ with a slight rollino​,​ high gorge​,​ three-roll-two jackets​,​ very light construction​,​ with an affection for patch pockets. The aim is to provide comfort and ease for the wearer​,​ feeling like he's wearing nothing at all. It is therefore the perfect garment for southern Italy's climate​,​ reminiscing of the relaxed and nonchalant attire of the then affluent aristocratic class of the Bourbon-Naples of the late 19th and early 20th century. I'm proposing a typical example of his work: a 3 roll 2 navy suit in a fine Super 180's wool. Made in 2012​​,​​​ it will become your favorite business suit from spring to summer. It is a classic neapolitan cut with a nice rollino​. As always with Caliendo​​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​​ it is fully handmade​​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar​​​,​​​ along with the trousers. The conditions is excellent​,​ aside from some wear on the back of the trousers due to the lack of extra fabric for the waist (invisible when worn). The suit is best fitted for someone with a 36UK ​​​/​​​ 46FR size​​​,​​​ around 1m75 tall. Here are the measurements Shoulders: ​​42cm Sleeve length: 62cm (with ​4cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 48cm Waist at button: 47cm Jacket length: 79cm (collar included​​​​​​,​​​​​​ with 5​,​5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 9cm Waist for trousers: 41cm (no fabric to let out) Length from inseam: 76cm Length total: 100cm (with 5cm of fabric to let out) Legs width: 19cm (with 2cm of fabric to widen it) Trouser Cuffs: 3cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca​​​​,​​​​ Cifonelli​​​​,​​​​ Francesco Smalto​​​​,​​​​ Claude Rousseau​​​​,​​​​ Arnys​​​​,​​​​ Lanvin Mesure​​​​,​​​​ Henri Urban​​,​​ Max Evzeline​​​​,​​​​ Opelka​​​​,​​​​ Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico)​​​​,​​​​ Rubinacci​​​​,​​​​ Dalcuore​​​​,​​​​ Panico​​ - In England: Anderson & Sheppard​​​​,​​​​ Henry Poole​​​​,​​​​ Huntsman & Sons​​​​,​​​​ Nutters of Savile Row​​​​,​​​​ Chittleborough & Morgan​​​​,​​​​ Richard Anderson​​​​,​​​​ Meyer & Mortimer.