Description

Arnys was a legendary French house synonymous with the Parisian school of tailoring. Founded in 1933 by Jankel Grimbert​​,​​ it slowly grew in reputation as a shirtmaker. But it's only in 1957​​,​​ when his grandsons Michel and Jean Grimbert decided to move to 14 Rue de Sèvres in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés​​,​​ that Arnys found true success. With the Trente Glorieuses​​,​​ the Parisian intelligentsia and bourgeoisie wanted new things​​,​​ far from the conservative and stiff suits of their forefathers. Some went to Joseph Camps and later Francesco Smalto for new and daring cuts​​,​​ while others choose a more laid-back style​​,​​ reminiscent of the countryside and the English gentry. Arnys first "new" clients were medicine students​​,​​ friends of the Grimbert​​,​​ since the college was close by. Then followed the socialites and the artists​​,​​ from Montparnasse and the Café de Flore. By the 1960's​​,​​ all the intellectuals went to Arnys (Jean-Paul Sartre​​,​​ André Gide​​,​​ Boris Vian). Even Pablo Picasso ordered a few jackets. The consecration for Arnys was the design of a very unique jacket: the Forestière. Made for the famous architect Le Corbusier​​,​​ it was a work jacket inspired by forest guards in the Sologne region. Loose fitted with a raglan shoulder and turn-up cuffs​​,​​ it was made to guarantee ample movements without the structure of a more formal jacket. First in moleskin​​,​​ Arnys expanded the Forestière to a rainbow of colours​​,​​ fabrics (from linen to cashmere) and details (quilted​​,​​ embroidered​​,​​ unlined). It was the must-have for any successful artist living in Paris. Arnys made several other jackets​​,​​ coats​​,​​ shoes​​,​​ shirts and ties​​,​​ in the same vein with bold colours and intricate details​​,​​ such as the Cornac​​,​​ the Campus​​,​​ or the Depart​​,​​ working only with the best makers (Isaia​​,​​ Belvest​​,​​ Lobb​​,​​ Ugolini​​,​​ Ballantyne) and fabrics (cashmere​​,​​ camelhair​​,​​ lambswool​​,​​ deerskin​​,​​ etc.). They also decided to propose bespoke products​​,​​ mainly suits​​,​​ in the purest Parisian fashion (Parisian lapel​​,​​ cigarette shoulder​​,​​ entirely handmade). Going to Arnys became like a pilgrimage for dandies and connoisseurs. Artists​​,​​ poets and authors even wrote the foreword of their annual catalogue. With such reputation​​,​​ many other clients came to Arnys​​,​​ notably politicians from both the Left and the Right​​,​​ as well as CEO's. By 2013​​,​​ Arnys was acquired by the luxury group LVMH and merged with the shoemaker Berluti. The name is now gone but still fondly remembered by clients and admirers. In 2017​​,​​ Arnys made the headline again during the French Presidential Campaign when the Conservative candidate was accused of receiving several bespoke suits and jackets for free from a political operative. A bespoke suit costed around 7500 euros at the time. After more than 90 years​​,​​ the name Arnys is still a symbol of power and influence in Paris and in the world of tailoring. I propose a classic example of Arnys work: a tan cotton-silk jacket with their iconic Parisian lapel. Made in the 2000's by Isaia​​,​​ the model is called "Chemise" due to its lightness. Unlined​​,​​ it will become your favorite sporcoat during spring and summer. As always with Arnys​​​​,​​​​ it is of the upmost quality​​​​,​​​​ from the lining to the buttonholes​​​​,​​​​ from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is like new. The jacket is best fitted for someone with a 40UK​​​/​​​​50FR​​ size around 1m75​​,​​​​ despite the label stating a 42​​/​​52 size​​. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 44​​,​​5cm Sleeve length: 60cm (with 4cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 52​​,​​5cm Waist at button: 51cm Jacket length: 80cm (collar included​​​​​,​​​​​ with 5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 8cm Quality equivalent to the following houses: Cesare Attolini​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Brioni​​,​​ Cifonelli (RTW)​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Ermenegildo Zegna (Su Misura)​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Kiton​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Liverano & Liverano​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Loro Piana​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Ralph Lauren (Purple Label)​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Santandrea (Saint Andrews)​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Stefano Ricci​​​​​​,​​​​​​ Tom Ford​​​​​​​,​​​​​​​ Zilli Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement.