RTW Francesco Smalto Navy Blue Super 180's Blazer - 36/46R
RTW Francesco Smalto Navy Blue Super 180's Blazer - 36​/​46R

Description

Francesco Smalto was one of the best tailor in Paris. Born in 1927 in Calabria​,​ trained by Joseph Camps (who later founded Camps de Luca)​,​ he was his head-cutter until 1962. There he learned how to perfect the style elaborated by Joseph Camps​,​ notably the Parisian or fishmouth lapel. He then decided to leave Joseph Camps rather unceremoniously to create his own atelier Rue de Miromesnil​,​ taking the main salesmen​,​ as well as most of the clients by sending them an announcement. One of his first big clients was the future King of Morocco Hassan II. Hassan II was at the beginning interested to work only with Claude Rousseau (another cutter for Joseph Camps)​,​ but Mr. Camps refused because he feared Rousseau would do the same thing that Francesco Smalto did earlier and leave (Claude Rousseau did eventually​,​ in 1970). Francesco Smalto became in the 1970's the main tailor of heads-of-state (in Africa and the Middle-East)​,​ celebrities (notably Jean-Paul Belmondo in Stavisky)​,​ politicians​,​ big lawyers and other personalities. These clients had some downsides​,​ mostly the African dictators​,​ since there were at the center of multiple political and financial scandals known as Françafrique. For the french readers​,​ here is an excellent article summarising the influence of Francesco Smalto on foreign affairs from the 1970's to the 2000's: https://www.lemonde.fr/m-le-mag/article/2019/09/29/smalto-le-tailleur-de-la-francafrique_6013484_4500055.html. He passed away in 2015​,​ after more than four decades of revolutionising Parisian tailoring. Two of his apprentices later founded their own atelier: Kenjiro Suzuki and Florian Sirven (now at Berluti) and perpetuate his work. His style in and of itself is legendary. The writer Françoise Sagan said Francesco Smalto was "one of those rare men who can blend luxury and sobriety​,​ the daily life and glamour. He's an artisan and a lord". Francesco Smalto created a unique silhouette: sharp lines with a rich cigarette shoulder​,​ a clean parisian lapel​,​ slightly longer than Camps de Luca​,​ tight chest and suppressed waist. His suits​,​ sportcoats​,​ and overcoats were the very definition of elegance and luxury. Smalto also proposes an excellent ready-to-wear offer. Made by Rafaele Caruso (also the maker of many high-end brands such as Dior​,​ Cifonelli​,​ and Ralph Lauren)​,​ it features many of its bespoke details: the Parisian lapel (even more striking)​,​ tight chest and suppressed waist​,​ slightly longer sleeves​,​ and a good cigarette shoulder. I'm proposing a great exemple of his ready-to-wear line: a navy blue blazer in a fine Super 180's wool. Made in the 2000's​,​ it is a very good expression of Francesco Smalto style: luxurious and elegant. It will become your go-to blazer from spring to autumn​,​ and can be paired with every trousers. As always with Francesco Smalto​,​​​​​ it is fully canvassed​,​​​​​ with lots of handwork​​​​​,​ on the lapels​,​ shoulders​,​ buttonholes​,​ collar​,​ lining​,​ and pockets​,​ and many other things you might find in the bespoke atelier. The conditions is excellent. Tagged 46FR​,​ it is best fitted for someone with a strong 36UK​​​/​​​46FR or a slim 38UK​/​48FR size​​​,​​​ around 1m75 tall. Here are the measurements: Shoulders: 42​,​5​​cm Sleeve length: 61cm (with 3cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 47​,​5cm Waist at button: 47cm Jacket length: 76cm (collar included​​​​,​​​​ with 4cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 9cm Quality equivalent to the following houses: Belvest​,​ Brioni​,​ Cesare Attolini​​​​,​​​​ Cifonelli (RTW)​​​​,​​​​ Ermenegildo Zegna (Su Misura)​​​​,​​​​ Isaia (Red Coral Line)​​​​,​​​​ Kiton​​​​,​​​​ Liverano & Liverano​​​​,​​​​ Loro Piana​​​​,​​​​ Ralph Lauren (Purple Label)​​​​,​​​​ Santandrea (Saint Andrews)​​​​,​​​​ Stefano Ricci​​​,​​​ Tom Ford​​​​,​​​​ Zilli Possibly to try it in Paris 16th Arrondissement.

Features

UK size: 38

Condition: Excellent

Fabrication: Bespoke

Patterns: Plain

Length: Regular

Construction: Canvassed

Colour: Navy

Location

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    €345